1. Prepare a clean workspace


Before opening or handling anything, wash your hands thoroughly and clean the work surface. A still, clean room is best. Wipe the injection port (the grey rubber bit in the lid) on the rye jar with the included alcohol swab. The cleaner you are at this stage, the lower your contamination risk later on. General extension guidance for liquid culture inoculation also recommends minimising exposure, disinfecting the injection port, and keeping everything as clean as possible during inoculation.

2. Attach the needle and keep everything sterile
Remove the syringe cap and quickly attach the sterile needle. Do not touch the needle or the open tip of the syringe, as this can contaminate the kit. Keep the needle capped until right before injecting.

3. Wipe the injection port
Wipe the injection port on the bag thoroughly with the alcohol swab. Make sure the bag remains sealed.

4. Inject into the rye layer
Carefully remove the needle cap, insert the needle through the injection port and aim it into the rye grain layer. Slowly inject the liquid culture into the rye. Be careful not to push the needle too far through the bag, as this could puncture the bottom or side. Remove the needle and leave the bag sealed. Do not cut, open or mix the bag yet.

5. First incubation
Place the sealed bag somewhere clean and warm, ideally around 20–24°C unless your species guide states otherwise. Keep it away from direct sunlight, radiators, cold windowsills and draughts. White mycelium will begin spreading through the rye grain. Wait until the rye layer is mostly or fully white before moving to the next step. This usually takes around 2–4 weeks, but growth speed can vary.

6. Break and mix
Once the rye layer is well colonised, gently squeeze the outside of the sealed bag to break up the colonised rye. Do not open the bag. Mix the colonised rye evenly through the master’s mix substrate so the white grain is spread throughout the whole bag.

7. Second incubation
After mixing, place the sealed bag back in a clean, warm area. Leave it sealed until the contents are mostly or fully white throughout. This usually takes around 1–3 weeks, but some species may take longer.

8. Fruiting
Once the bag is fully colonised, cut a small X or slit in the side of the bag, around 3–5cm wide. Place the bag somewhere with indirect light and fresh air. Keep temperatures within the range shown on your species guide. Mist around the cut area lightly 1–2 times per day. Do not soak the mushrooms or spray them heavily. The aim is to keep the area humid, not wet.

9. Harvest
Harvest when your mushrooms reach the stage described on your species guide. Gently twist and pull the cluster from the bag, or cut it close to the base with a clean knife. Always cook edible mushrooms before eating.

10. Further flushes
Your bag may produce another flush after harvesting. Keep it in the same fruiting area and continue light misting. Later flushes may be smaller than the first.

Important: Do not eat the mushrooms if you notice green, black or foul-smelling mould. Some slight yellowing can happen as mushrooms mature, but strong mould growth or bad smells mean the kit should be discarded.

9. Harvest

Pins should begin forming once fruiting conditions are right, and they will expand quickly. For oyster-type mushrooms, harvest just before the caps flatten out too far or start curling upward, as this is usually the best stage for texture and quality. Cut or twist them off cleanly at the base using a clean blade or scissors. With good conditions, a second flush often appears after the first harvest.